The Ultimate Two Week Colombia Itinerary

Friends, I have the ultimate two-week Colombia itinerary for you. It’ll have you head over heels for this overwhelmingly magnetic country in no time.

I hadn’t planned on going to Colombia this year.

Or next year, or the next. Honestly, I’ve never really felt beckoned by South America’s siren call. Europe’s been my Everest. Europe’s the continent to which I’m drawn year after year, compelled to see its every corner. In an effort to deviate from my well-worn path and in a move that I thought was quite poetic, I chose to return to my Asian roots for my Grand Adventure. The One in Which I Quit My Job to Travel.

You know what they say about plans and all. With coronavirus taking over Asia, we pivoted to Colombia and Panama within a week of our departure. Neither my friend nor I had ever set foot in Central or South America. We spoke minimal Spanish, and knew very little about its culture or history outside of the turbulent years depicted in Narcos. We were so unprepared.

Unprepared to fall so intensely in love with Colombia, that is. With her wild diversity in landscapes to explore. With her epicurean delights. And most of all, with her resilient, funny, gracious, warm people. Truly some of the friendliest people I’ve ever met, in any country. I’ve written up this Colombia itinerary in the hopes that you too will fly back home completely enchanted and wanting more.

Things to Know Before You Go

Money: Currency, Tipping, ATM’s

The currency in Colombia is the COP: the Colombian peso. The exchange rate as of June 2020 is at 1 USD to 3762 COP, which essentially means that you’ll feel like a high roller the entire time you’re in Colombia.

To note, we did struggle a bit to find ATM’s, although this could be due to the fact that we didn’t know exactly what to look for. Later on our trip, we realized that there were green kiosks commonly found in grocery stores (especially in Carullas) and shopping malls that were a central hub for paying bills and parking tickets, and served as ATM’s too. Most places in Bogotá, Medellin, and Cartagena accepted all major credit cards. It was trickier in smaller towns like Salento, especially at smaller cafes and restaurants so arrive equipped with some cash for these instances.

It’s standard to tip 10% in Latin America for restaurants, transportation, etc.

Language & Key Phrases to Know

I’ll be honest, you’re going to have a much easier time in Colombia if you’re conversational in Spanish. Very little English is spoken outside of Cartagena. However, my Spanish is poor at best and I still managed to have a fantastic time. Colombian people are wonderfully warm and were far more forgiving than they should’ve been about our Spanish shortcomings – as they will likely be with you. Fair warning though, you’ll have to fall back on the universal language of pantomiming and a lot of laughter.

Here are a few frequently used terms and phrases to have in your toolbelt:

Buenos dias: good day!

Gracias: thank you.

Por favor: please.

Perdon: excuse me!

Donde está: where is…

Quisiera: “I would like”

La cuenta, por favor: the check, please!

Packing

Outlets: Colombia’s outlets are Type A and Type B, two- and three-prong plugs. They run at a standard voltage of 110V. US travelers do not need to bring a power adapter or transformer.

Clothing: make sure you bring a variety of clothing because you’ll be facing a variety of weather conditions. Coastal cities like Cartagena are hot hot hot and humid year-round, so bring light and breathable clothing. Cities within the more mountainous regions like Bogotá and Medellin will have their fair share of cool mornings and evenings, so don’t forget a jacket.

Other: bring plenty of sunscreen and bug spray, especially if you’re spending time in towns at high altitudes such as Salento. Also make sure you bring a rain-jacket or an umbrella. Those afternoon showers are unrelenting.

Getting Around

Ubers: Here’s the deal on Ubers. They currently operate in Colombia, but through a loophole. The caveat is that the Uber driver will typically ask one person to sit in the front seat so that you’re less conspicuous as an Uber ride. If you’re nervous about that, hail a taxi or use Beat or Bolt, both local equivalents instead. To be honest, our sketchiest incident was a taxi ride in Medellin from the bus station to our hotel, so we pretty much stuck to Ubers exclusively after that.

Traveling Domestically via Bus vs Plane: Colombia is nearly three times the size of California, which means that you’ll travel far distances if you’re visiting more than one city. Flying is convenient and fast. Bussing is cheap ($15 rather than $70 to get from Salento to Medellin, for example), green, and comfortable. Our bus was equipped with a bathroom, WiFi, and lots of leg room. The one major downside to taking a bus is that construction on the road can add hours to your itinerary. We waited at one construction zone for 40 minutes, another for 15 minutes but I’ve heard worse too.

If you don’t have a lot of time on your hands, go ahead and fly. Take a bus if you have a few more days to spare. The views are gorgeous, and it’s always nice to reduce your footprint.

Safety

Is it safe? Absolutely the #1 question we were asked by parents and friends. To be sure, the question is valid. Colombia has a reputation of being a dangerous country ruled by drug lords, which stems from Narcos episodes as well as media coverage of its civil war in the 60s onward.

Modern day Colombia is far removed from its grisly past. The cities and areas that you will find yourself visiting as tourists are incredibly safe. With a few precautions, you’ll be as safe as you are anywhere else in the world.

Firstly, DO NOT travel over land to Panama, as this will take you through the Darien Gap, which still has a paramilitary and drug trafficking presence. It’s called the most dangerous journey in the world. When planning our trip, I naively thought we’d bus up to Panama. Um, no. Fly, or sail – which is what we were going to do!

Next, a general rule of thumb is to take a taxi or Uber after dark in big cities. Even in the safest of neighborhoods, even if you’re only going a few blocks away.

Finally, just be mindful and aware, like you would be anywhere. There’s a common saying in Colombia: no dar papaya. Don’t give papaya. Don’t be an easy target. Be careful about putting away valuables such as phones, cameras, Airpods, and large bills while walking out and about.

We purchased World Nomads travel insurance for peace of mind. It was affordable, convenient to purchase, and worth it to have in our opinion.

The Perfect Two Week Colombia Itinerary

Now, let’s dive into your Colombia itinerary!

My own Colombia itinerary actually unfolded in reverse. I’m having you begin in Cartagena and Medellin because they are a tad more westernized and catered for tourists. Perfect conditions to wet your feet before moving on to Salento and Bogotá, which felt more low-key and authentic. (Of course, if flights are cheaper to Bogotá like mine were, feel free to just plan the following Colombia itinerary backward. It’ll be amazing either way!)

Day 1: Arrive in Cartagena

Once you touchdown in Cartagena’s tiny airport, take a 15-minute taxi over to the Walled City and check in to your hotel. (I recommend staying at Casa BuGo in the Walled City for moderately priced accommodations.)

After you’ve unpacked and settled in, grab your camera and start wandering the streets of the Walled City. So many scenes are simply begging to be captured: colorful, colonial buildings, horse-drawn carriages, ladies balancing fruit baskets on top of their heads. When you need a break from the heat, stop at La Bottega de Fitz for coffee and pastries.

Stroll around some more in the afternoon, or return to the hotel for a dip in the pool. You’re on vacation! When you’re fully rested, head over to Cafe del Mar for a drink right on the city walls at sunset. For dinner, taste some of the most delicious ceviche ever at El Boliche Cebicheria. To round out the night, bring your best moves to Cafe Havana for some salsa and live music!

Day 2: Island Day Trip from Cartagena

Hungover? Nothing that the delicious, made-to-order breakfast at Casa BuGo won’t fix. If you’re staying elsewhere, Epoca Espresso Bar is great for breakfast. Their calentado de res fry-up is SO good.

You’re right by the Caribbean Sea, so you obviously need some beach time. Unfortunately, the beaches in Cartagena leave a lot to be desired, so you’ll want to take a day trip to the Rosario Islands. I’m told it’s an excellent place to snorkel!

In the evening, when you’re tanned and fresh off of sea therapy, it’s time for the rooftop at Buena Vida. Order a round of mojitos and calamari to share, aaaand *wait for it* bask in living la buena vida.

Alternative: for even more vitamin sea, check out of your hotel in the Walled City, and head over to Isla Barú for a night. It’s about an hour’s drive from Cartagena. I would stay at Playa Manglares – in fact, I tried to. If you’re feeling FOMO about such a short stay in Cartagena, don’t worry about it. A day was plenty to fully appreciate the historic center.

Day 3: Morning in Cartagena & Evening in Medellin

For those of you who relaxed on Isla Barú, lucky you. Enjoy your morning by the sea, and then ask the hotel to call a taxi to take you to the airport in the afternoon.

For the rest of you, also lucky you! Caffeinate yourself at Ábaco Libros and Cafe where you can also pick up a copy of a Gabriel Garcia Marquez book, and then laze about the pool for a slow morning. Or, head on over to the Getsemani neighborhood right next to the Walled City to check out street art and trendy cafes such as Cafe del Mural. Then, you too will head to the airport for your flight to the buzzing city of Medellin.

In Medellin, take a taxi to your hotel. Definitely stay in El Poblado, the safest neighborhood in the city. There’s so much to eat, drink, and see here. For my next visit, I’d love to stay at Celestino Boutique Hotel. How stunning, right? The Charlee Hotel is another popular option.

In fact, once you’re checked into your hotel, I suggest you make your way over to the Charlee Hotel rooftop in time for sunset. The views are insane, and the people-watching is even better. For dinner and more drinks, stroll along the main strip of El Poblado until you come across a situation that’s vibing with you. We grabbed beers and tacos at Criminal Taqueria, which was good – but everything on the street should be! El Social is a popular spot too.

Day 4: Medellin Walking Tour and Parque Arvi

OK friends, we’re going to be getting a lot of steps in today. Who knew my Colombia itinerary would be so… active, right?

But first, coffee. Pop into Pergamino for a cappuccino or pour-over to get you hyped.

Then, you’ll head to El Centro, Medellin’s downtown district, for a free walking tour with Real City Tours. This informative tour will take you all of the key landmarks and sights like Plaza Botero, Parque San Antonio, and Paseo Carabobo street accompanied by your guides’ explanations of cultural and historical nuance.

Option 1: Think you’re done walking? Think again. Now, it’s time to explore Parque Arvi, a sprawling park with hiking trails, wildlife, horse-back riding, and more. Here are detailed instructions on how to get to Parque Arvi using the MetroCable.

Option 2: Need a pick-me-up? Head back to El Poblado for this barista class. You’ll learn all about making espresso drinks like cappuccinos and macchiatos from the best of the best.

Alright, head back to the hotel to freshen up for dinner. Tonight, you’ll have a reservation at Carmen, the top restaurant in town. Try the 10 course tasting menu – it’s a delightful journey of Colombian flavors!

Day 5: Guatapé Day Trip from Medellin

An early start today! Meet your tour group bright and early for your day-trip to Guatapé, a pueblo about two hours outside of Medellin.

There are a couple of stops before you get to the pueblo itself. I’ll let most of them surprise you, but know that you’ll be climbing El Peñol and visiting a rainbow town with the best cinnamon roll in the world.

You should be back in Medellin early evening. I recommend grabbing dinner at Alambique in El Poblado and then joining a salsa dancing class! Toucan Cafe offers community classes and private lessons for tourists and locals alike.

Day 6: Comuna 13 Graffiti Tour in Medellin

Today, I’m having you take a graffiti tour in Comuna 13, an absolute must-do in Medellin. The Comuna 13 neighborhood was once considered to be the most dangerous place in the world. Now, it’s teeming with art and music and dancing.

Start the day with coffee at Toucan Cafe, which will be convenient because they facilitate a Comuna 13 tour that leaves from its front doors. You’ll use public transportation, guided by a local, to get to Comuna 13 and spend the next few hours touring the neighborhood. Be respectful, open to learning, and also don’t miss out on the famous mango ice pop.

Your Toucan Cafe guide will accompany you back to El Poblado via public transportation. Once you’re back in the neighborhood, I recommend taking a break at Parque Lleras or grabbing a drink at the Charlee if you haven’t been able to yet.

For dinner, order a huge steaming bowl of ajiaco at Mondongos.

Day 7: Travel to Salento

Next up on this Colombia itinerary is my favorite little town.

This is an excellent opportunity to get acquainted with the long-distance bus system. I always enjoy bus travel for the chance to see more landscapes and stretch out a bit. I did the reverse of this journey, from Salento to Medellin. Flota Occidental operates this bus route, and we had a great experience. Although the two lengthy stops at construction zones were annoying, the views were gorgeous and the entertainment plentiful (3 straight hours of Fruit Ninja)! If you’re running short on time, look into flying to Medellin instead.

After you’ve checked into your guesthouse (I have a huge soft spot for Hotel La Caracola), walk on over to the main street El Calle Real. Wander around a bit and admire the rainbow buildings. When you get hungry, dinner tonight will be at Cafe Barnabé Gourmet.

Day 8: Take It Easy in Salento

You have two full days of adventure ahead, so I want you to take it easy today. Soak in Salento’s sleepy vibes. Have a slow, leisurely morning. Might I suggest trying a bandeja paisa for breakfast?

Afterwards, treat yourself to a hot cup of coffee at Cafe Jesus Martin. Trust me, you’re going to want it to settle your food coma. Then, the world is your oyster. Walk around town, have a cocktail, snack on an obleta.

At some point, you have to check out the two stunning miradores, viewpoints that will offer sweeping views of the town and the Cocora Valley. I’d start by hiking up the steep flight of stairs at the end of Calle Real to the Mirador Alto de la Cruz. This mirador shows a lovely panoramic view of Salento town. Next, follow the signs to the Mirador de Salento, which is a short walk away. Here, you’ll be treated to unobstructed valley views. It was like looking at Jumanji!

For lunch, El Rincon de Lucy is a must. Coming in at just under $5 per person, you can try Salento’s famous trucha (trout), or chicken or pork with a bevy of sides and some tasty soup too. Delicious deal of the century.

Enjoy some more down time in the afternoon – pet the adorable stray dogs in town, do some souvenir shopping. And then! Then, you’ll play some tejo at Los Amigos. Haven’t heard of tejo? It’s a bar game involving gunpowder – count on having the best time ever.

Day 9: Hike Cocora Valley in Salento

First things first. Food. You’re going to be hiking Cocora Valley today which takes about 6 hours if you do the whole thing. You’ll have no access to food during the hike, so it’s best to come prepared.

Salento’s not-so-secret secret is a restaurant called Brunch de Salento. It’s owned by Americans, which means… American-sized portions. Place an order for a brown bag lunch the evening before for pick-up at 7:00am. Swing by to pick it up, and then head towards the main square. You’ll take an old school Jeep, known as a Willy, to Cocora. The first Willy leaves at 7:30am – my advice is to go as early as possible so you have plenty of time in Cocora. I recommend hanging off the back of the Willy. The breeze is a godsend, and the views are incredible.

The Cocora Valley hike might be one of the most beautiful sights you’ll ever see, but it’s also exhausting! Once you’re back in town, camp out a bar on Calle Real for a mojito to wind down and then perhaps you’ll be energized enough for some more tejo before the night ends.

Day 10: Riding Horses to a Coffee Farm in Salento

This is going to be the most magical day.

Arrange a horse-back riding excursion through your guesthouse with an operator that they trust. The guide and horses will most likely come to pick you up at your accommodations, so wake up early for breakfast and then board your chariot. There are a few possible routes, but I recommend that you select one that takes you to a coffee farm. You’ll ride up to the coffee farm, tour the property, and try some espresso right at its source. Pretty freaking sweet. Then, depending on the excursion that you’ve selected, you’ll ride along the Quindio river (which is what I did), to a waterfall, or elsewhere.

Day 11: Fly to Bogota

And finally, the last stop on your Colombia itinerary: the sprawling capital city of Bogotá.

Take a taxi from the airport to your accommodations (we loved the Selina Parque de la 93). I recommend staying in the El Chico or Zona T / Zona Rosa neighborhoods. Get acquainted with the neighborhood with a leisurely stroll, and pick up some snacks from a street cart if you’re hungry. If it’s a Friday or Saturday evening, make sure you have a reservation for Andre Carne de la Res. It’s a steak restaurant about an hour’s drive from Bogotá, and it turns into a full-on experience through the night.

If it looks like you’re going to have more time in the afternoon in Bogotá to explore, here are a couple of suggestions for activities: visit the Salt Cathedral of Zipaquira, Beyond Colombia’s free (!) food tour, or this exotic fruit tour.

Day 12: Explore La Candelaria in Bogota

You’re going to head to the historical center of La Candelaria today to Learn Some Things. Remember to leave earlier than you think (like, give it a two hour window) if you’re staying north of Chapinero because traffic is a nightmare in Bogotá.

Head to La Puerta Falsa to try chocolate santafereño for breakfast. Cheese melted in hot chocolate, served with cheesy bread on the side. I mean, way to coat your stomach right?

Next, meet up with Beyond Colombia’s Free Walking Tour. This tour is awesome. It takes you to a fake emerald market, introduces you to the history of the region, briefs you on the significance of street art, allows you to sample chicha, and brings you to the top historical sights in the area. The guides were knowledgeable, hilarious, and really friendly too.

For lunch, head to the La Puerta de la Catedral for ajiaco and limonada de cocos. Walk off your lunch by re-tracing your steps to admire the street art in more detail, and visit the Botero Museum if you haven’t had a chance yet. Oh and! Stop by Cafe Magola for an icy lulo helado and all the hipster vibes. Great place to do some journaling or postcard writing!

Day 13: Hiking Up Monserrate in Bogotá

Again, I never expected my Colombia itinerary and recommendations to be so active, but I swear it’s all worth it for the views!

Take a taxi to Amor Perfecto first thing in the morning for some excellent brew and a slice of cake as an incentive for hiking. Then, head on up to the pedestrian trail of Monserrate. I’m not going to lie to you, this was a difficult hike, even for my much more athletic friend Leah. It’s completely uphill. The elevation gain is brutal. But take it slow, drink plenty of water, and you’ll be rewarded with insane views along the way.

Post-hike, I bet you’re going to be ravenous. Take the cable car or the funicular back down (or hike back down if you’re really ambitious), and take a taxi to Arepas La Reina for a not-so-light lunch. Spend the rest of the afternoon exploring the Chapinero neighborhood. There are lots of shops, cafes, and restaurants! Centrico is a bar on the 41st floor of a building in Chapinero – head right on over for paramount views and a cocktail.

Day 14: Usaquen Market in Bogotá, and Fly Home

In the morning, take a car over to the Usaquen neighborhood. Feast on a decadent breakfast at Abasto. The mini empanadas come with a lulo salsa that’s crazy delicious.

There is a flea market right around the corner from Abasto every Sunday. So if Sunday falls on one of your earlier days – feel free to squeeze this morning into one of the other days instead. If your Bogotá leg doesn’t fall on any Sunday though, it’s still worth it to come out to Usaquen for breakfast and a quick jaunt around their BoHo market to look at artisanal goodies crafted by local vendors. Great souvenirs!

(Not going to Usaquen? El Chico’s Azahar Cafe is an Instagram dream with great food to boot!)

Head back to your hotel to pick up your luggage, and then make your way to the airport to fly back home. Alas, it’s time.

Other Cities to Add To Your Colombia Itinerary

Three Colombian destinations that I’ll be adding my next Colombia itinerary:

Barranquilla

The locals we met in Colombia all sang the praises of Barranquilla, the largest city on Colombia’s north Caribbean coast. Home to some of the best beaches in the country, incredible food, and the second-largest Carnival celebration outside of Rio de Janeiro, Barranquilla is a place to go wild and relax all at once.

Jardín

I’ve written about Salento and Guatapé, both Colombian rainbow towns. Jardín is another colorful pueblo, but is much more off the beaten track. About a four hour drive from Medellin in the Coffee Triangle, Jardín offers excellent coffee, a quaint atmosphere, and lots of opportunities to be in nature. Known for its hikes and bird-watching, you’ll be surrounded by so much beauty.

Santa Marta

Santa Marta is another city on the north Caribbean coast of Colombia. Most travelers recommend using the city as a launchpad for exploring Tayrona National Park, which boasts some of the most beautiful beaches in South America. Santa Marta is also where you’d begin your Lost City trek, a four day journey through a jungle to see a lost city 650 years older than Machu Picchu.

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The Ultimate Two Week Colombia Itinerary

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