Envision this: strolling around Cartagena’s Walled City, admiring its pretty colonial architecture, basking in its humid grip. From her shores, you’re soon set to embark on a week-long adventure sleeping in hammocks on the San Blas Islands.
Then, this: a global pandemic beginning to rear its mighty head in Latin America. People are scrambling, unsure of how long lasting or serious it’ll be. The hostel warns you about newly instated curfews (10pm) and passes out hand sanitizer at check-in. The boat trip through San Blas gets canceled. You pivot, planning to book this secluded hotel on Isla Barú. An hour away from Cartagena, it promised both distance from crowds and a beach escape while waiting for your last minute ($$$) flight back to America.
And finally, this: the situation quickly escalates within 24 hours. Beaches and islands close down, effectively deeming Plan B naive and laughable. Loose curfews turn into strict 6pm shutdowns, and then the total closure of the Walled City by the weekend.
Such was the story of our time in Cartagena. Still teeming with tourists on our first day, the Walled City had transformed into a ghost-town by our last. Yet, we still stumbled upon lovely corners – perhaps all the lovelier without the crowds – and businesses that faced these tumultuous days with grace. I’m sharing those favorites with you in anticipation of the day that Cartagena once again welcomes visitors looking for a balmy, lively, hedonistic getaway.
Exploring the Walled City
Typically, I like to include a section of recommended activities and excursions for your visit. But that becomes tricky when I myself did basically nothing while I was in town.
We’d meander the streets blindly, taking photos and jumping out of the way for horse carriages. The oppressive heat would inevitably get to be too much and we’d duck into a gelato shop or cafe for a pick-me-up. Or, we’d hurry back to the hotel to jump into the pool, the perfect antidote to the high temps and flight-booking stress. As much as I usually have so much FOMO if I’m not out and about in a new city doing things, I was more than content to indulge in our last chance to be on vacation for awhile.
But say that there hadn’t been a pandemic to deal with. We had actually come to Cartagena armed with recommendations from friends, family, and Internet People. Our itinerary would’ve looked a little something like this (and I hope yours might too)…
- Catch the sun set against the Caribbean Sea at Cafe Del Mar, an iconic spot on the old city walls. Alternatively, you can grab some beers and stake out a spot on the wall itself, which is what we did.
- Visit trendy cafes in the Getsemani neighborhood.
- Salsa-dancing at Cafe Havana.
- Spend a night or two on Isla Barú, and then take a day trip out to snorkel at the Rosario Islands.
- Castillo De San Felipe de Barajas, a historic castle that you can walk to from the Walled City in about an hour.
- Pamper yourself (or make a big mess!) at the mud volcano, an easy day trip.
Best Restaurants & Cafes in Cartagena
Somehow, we still more than ate our fill in Cartagena.
Even with restaurants closing left and right, even feeling “too hot to eat,” even while living in fear of other people’s germs… we still ate, ate, ate. Classic. If you’re in Cartagena, do not miss:
La Bottega de Fitz: this Shakespeare & Co. outpost is pretty much the cutest little cafe in all of Cartagena. Leah and I tucked ourselves away at the lone table upstairs, close to the air-conditioning and away from other people. They handed us a bell to ring once we were ready to order – so charming! The coffees are great, and the cake of the day was so delicious.
Epoca Espresso Bar & Coffee Roasters: great cafe for excellent coffee and quick bites. We popped in multiple times! I’m still dreaming about their take on calentado, a rice, steak, and beans breakfast fry-up.
El Boliche Cebicheria: the best ceviche I’ve ever had! Cartagena has incredible, albeit pricey (compared to the rest of Colombia, that is) seafood. And some of its finest comes in ceviche form. Also, the fried blue crab empanadas were out of this world. La Cevicheria is another well-known choice for ceviche, famously visited by Anthony Bourdain, just a block away.
La Mulata: really tasty, hearty Caribbean fare. We shared a delicious chimichurri steak and a fresh salad – the portion sizes are huge.
Pezetarian: great spot for quick, healthy bowls and salads.
Buena Vida: we didn’t actually make it to Buena Vida because of coronavirus closures, but it was on the top of my list. Their rooftop is atmospheric and food is top-notch!
Where to Stay in Cartagena
Leah and I spent our first night in a private room at The Clock Hostel & Suites. The staff is so friendly and accommodating, and I think under different circumstances, we would’ve loved socializing with other travelers there. Alas, with everyone starting to maintain distance, with no windows or hot water, and our departure date finally set… well, let’s just say that we craved one last treat.
So we skipped out on the rest of our reservation, walked around town and into a number of hotels, and booked Casa BuGo on the spot once we saw their pool and relaxed vibes. It became our sanctuary, away from the heat and the threat of the virus. Casa BuGo serves an excellent, complimentary, made-to-order (!) breakfast, which started our days off on the right foot. Once we tired of walking around town, we’d retreat back to the pool with a crossword or a book, and the lovely ladies who worked there would bring us fresh smoothies to cool down. If you’re looking for a moderately priced accommodation in Cartagena, definitely consider Casa BuGo. What an oasis!
I’ll be honest. Cartagena was far from my favorite place in Colombia. It’s beautiful, yes. But like so many other Old Towns around the world, it’s overrun by and catered entirely for tourists. You’re pandered to by pushy vendors on the street, and overcharged for things of much lesser value compared to other Colombian cities. After Bogotá, Salento, and Medellin, it just felt that Cartagena was more buzz than heart.
So although the circumstances that led to it were devastating, our stolen time in a Cartagena that may have never seen such a void of activity and traffic was special. This was our last taste of a normal world before we too joined the world at pause. The emptiness was unnerving, surreal, and a little bit precious too.
[…] The Walled City of Cartagena […]