Alright, friends. Let’s cue up some George Ezra, because we’re going to talk Budapest today! In late April, my best friend Cassandra and I spent three days in Budapest before going on a one-week roadtrip through Croatia and well, consider me completely captivated.
Going in, I knew we’d have a fantastic time. Budapest has all the ingredients for a good time by our books: a thriving food scene, insane views, and a storied past to dive into. Even so, I left the vibrant city loving it even more than I thought I would. From the second the taxi driver opened up the sunroof so that we could catch the full view of the stunning architecture as we sped past, it was a full on love affair. Below, find all of my favorite Budapest experiences, restaurants, and more.
Getting In & Getting Around
I’m no expert with Budapest transportation, but I did want to share this comprehensive blog post with you – it’s what I used, and I found it to be so helpful!
I will say that Budapest is extremely walkable, and that was our preferred way of getting around. There is so much to absorb while en route: shopfronts to pop into, enticing street food to try, architectural wonders to gawk at.
Where To Stay
Budapest is made up of two distinct cities: Buda and Pest (if we’re being technical, Obuda is in the mix as well), with the Danube River running in between the two. There’s plenty to do and see on both sides of the river, but when it comes to picking a home base – it depends on the vibe you’re looking for.
Buda felt more polished and quiet. Gorgeous views, lots of hills, a calmer, more residential atmosphere. It is a safer bet for families or those who are seeking a slower pace.
Pest was full of energy – it’s home to the lively Jewish Quarter with all of its ruin bars, and generally felt a little more urban.
Within each, there are even more districts/neighborhoods to choose from. This is the guide I used to pinpoint where we wanted to stay. This is the art loft in District XI that we booked. It might actually be the cutest Airbnb I’ve ever stayed at, and is quite conveniently located too – always within 20 minutes’ walking distance to all the places we wanted to check out.
What To Do
Our Highlights: Not-To-Miss Experiences
Walking the Chain Bridge: catch beautiful views of both Buda and Pest, as well as the Danube slinking on beneath you as you cross this historic bridge that connects the two cities. On our first morning, which happened to be the only morning we managed to leave the house before 11am WHOOPS, we were out and about hours before the city started waking up. Man, if it didn’t feel like Budapest was ours and only ours to explore right then.
Checking out the views at Fisherman’s Bastion: this is one you’ll see on every Budapest guide, but it’s there for good reason. Take in unrivaled, panoramic views of Pest. Get here as early as possible before all of the tour buses arrive, and you’ll be able to get in without paying an entrance fee. I’ve also heard that the view at night is breathtaking. Afterwards, it’s an easy – and colorful! – walk to Matthias Church, Castle Hill, and other popular Buda sights too.
Soaking in a thermal bath: this city is known for its abundance of and its love for Roman baths. I was doubtful this would be our cup of tea. Crowds are not our strong suit. But because it was a rather chilly morning and we hadn’t brought nearly enough layers, we hit up Gellert Baths to try and warm up. A few pro tips here: 1) research the prices for the specific bathhouse you’re going to, there are often discounts for early birds, night owls, weekdays and more; 2) if possible, bring your own towels and swim caps because they do charge extra for those; and 3) once there, don’t stop at the first baths you see. You have to keep walking through the labyrinth of locker rooms and treatment areas to reach the crown jewels of the baths, but do it because they are GAME CHANGERS! Other famous bathhouses include Szechenyi, Rudas, and Kiraly.
Exploring Pest: we racked up over 90,000 steps during our sojourn and this was in no small part thanks to all the interesting nooks and crannies that Pest had to offer.
We were awed by landmarks like Parliament, which towered above us, and the Central Market – bursting with paprika vendors and fresh produce on the lower level and street food stalls upstairs. We’d often stop at a brewery or cafe that caught our eye, point out thought-provoking or colorful murals and graffiti to each other, shuffle into a shop for a quick browse (Paloma Collective is home to a handful of Hungarian designers, and is located in the prettiest, hidden courtyard; Andrassy Avenue feels straight out of Paris) or ooh and ahh at yet again another tree-lined street. There’s so much history laced throughout this city, not the least of which is marked at the sobering Shoes on the Danube. Take an afternoon to wander Pest with no itinerary, I promise you’ll come across so many treasures.
Admiring the Danube River at night: our first night in Budapest, we were fresh off close to 24-hours of travel and still we high-tailed it down to the river. It’s like nothing else. Pause to take in Buda across the way, lit up in all of its golden glory, and its reflection in the waters; listen to the revelers on river cruises sailing by, and join all of the people taking walks after dinner.
Eat & Drink
Once you’re done drinking in all the views, it’s time to fill your belly. The restaurant and bar scene in Budapest is… well, I have no words. I don’t think I’ve ever been so excited to eat my way through a city before, and no city has quite lived up to expectations like this one did. There’s SO MUCH goodness. Let’s break it down:
Street Food
Um, wow. Temptation, everywhere. There are two things you must try. First, kürtőskalács! I still have no idea how this is pronounced, but don’t let that stop you from trying one of these heavenly chimney cakes. The sweet strips of dough are wrapped around a wooden spit, and cooked until they’re nice and toasted, and delightfully crispy on the outside. Traditionally dusted with sugar and cinnamon, there are also a number of other flavor options to choose from too.
The other treat that you must try is lángos, which is the stuff of my drunken college night dreams: deep-fried dough topped with sour cream and cheese, and often other goodies as well. PSA: wear stretchy pants.
Our first night in Budapest, after both ice cream and kürtőskalács, we proceeded to order a feast at Belvarosi Disznotoros, which I’m putting in the street food section because of its casual vibe. You point out the meats and mains that look good, and the staff grills it right up for you, along with any sides you select as well. SO tasty and cheap, and Anthony Bourdain approved too.
The perimeter of the second floor of the Central Market is full of street food vendors too. You’ll find lángos, kürtőskalács, and more – our favorites included stuffed cabbage rolls (YUM), which we ate alongside a generous serving of spaeztle.
If you’re looking for something more funky: Bors Gasztro Bar. They serve hearty soups in paper cups and grilled baguette sandwiches boasting bold flavors. Cassandra and I grabbed a couple of sandwiches and a soup, and sat in the alleyway slurping away in a happy silence.
Traditional Hungarian Food
If you’re into the aforementioned stuffed cabbage rolls and spaetzle, then you’ll need to have a proper sit-down meal and try other traditional Hungarian dishes as well. My favorites:
Regos Vendeglo: around the corner from our apartment, and so cozy. The staff was wonderful – no-nonsense and efficient, but SO patient with our dozens of questions around stand-out dishes and local liquors. The chicken paprikash is an absolute gift: saucy and creamy and wonderfully tender.
Budapest Bisztro: the goulash I had here was the best I had on the trip! Great for lunch or dinner if you’re spending the day sight-seeing by Parliament.
Others that were recommended to me:
Gettó Gulyás: I really wanted to make this one happen, but alas we ran out of time. Lots of hearty stews, and comes with rave reviews!
Koleves Vendeglo: the restaurant serves up a mean goulash, and its ruin bar counterpart (Koleves Kert) is one of the more lowkey ones.
Drum Cafe: lots of Hungarian dishes, but also has a fun beer list.
Károlyi Étterem: classic Hungarian favorites.
Matula Bistro: supposedly a favorite with locals!
Ruin Bars (Plus Other Awesome Bars and Cafes Too)
You can’t come to Budapest without visiting a ruin bar, they’ll take your passport stamp away. Old warehouses and derelict buildings abandoned during World War II, primarily in the Jewish Quarter, have since been turned into lively ruin bars.
I wasn’t too sure I was cut out for them (read: I’m a grandma), but here’s the thing. No two ruin bars are the same, and the key is to pull a Goldilocks and scope out the best fit for you.
Ruin Bars
Szimpla Kert is the most famous one, and it’s huge. Sprawling across a labyrinth of stories and passageways, there is so much to see. We didn’t get to enjoy it to the fullest as we didn’t have enough cash on us, but I’d love to spend a few hours here! This ruin bar also turns into a farmers market on Sunday mornings. BRING CASH.
Mazel Tov: I wouldn’t have believed that this is even a ruin bar, it’s polished and trendy and moreso a restaurant serving up Israeli dishes and hip atmosphere (hanging greenery! cool lights! live music! garden furniture!) than a bar. Make sure you get the za’atar breadsticks and the Jerusalem cheesecake. Reservations recommended.
Ellato Kert: I was four rounds of drinks in when I popped into Ellato Kert, but this one’s grungier and what I would’ve thought all ruin bars were like (minus the crowds, so points for that).
You’ll find tons of ruin bars along Kazincsky Utca in the Jewish Quarter, so explore at your own pace. Others that were high on my list, that I didn’t end up having time to visit: Anker’t, Koleves Kert, and Kupling.
Ruin-less Bars
Kadarka: this was hands down our favorite wine bar. We visited every single day, and even purchased a couple of bottles to take home. The selection is on. point. and their cheese plate is a work of art too.
Tuk Tuk Bar: dark and hidden away and home to some really impressive cocktails!
Faust Wine Cellar: this is one I REALLY wanted to check out, but we couldn’t make it work. This is right by Buda Castle, and has a wide selection of local Hungarian wines to try.
Tasting Table: I’ve heard great things about both the wine bar as well as their tours too – their incredibly knowledgeable staff ensures that you have a wonderful experience.
Aria Hotel rooftop bar: #VIEWS
Cafes
Espresso Embassy: excellent cappuccinos, with a side of people-watching if you can snag a seat outside.
Alexandra Bookstore: hidden at the top of a bookshop is this gorgeous cafe – perfect for a quiet afternoon of journaling! Magveto Cafe is similar – there were lots of students typing up papers here when we visited.
Hadik Coffee House: this one is for more traditional Hungarian desserts and coffee. We went to Ruszwurm, but wish we had picked Hadik instead – seems to be less tourist-centric.
Note: we went into New York Cafe to see the famous interior, but honestly, I’d skip grabbing coffee here – it’s overrun with tourists!
Three days isn’t nearly enough in this city to see (and let’s be honest, eat) it all, but it was more than enough time to fall completely in love with it.
Readers, have you been to Budapest? If so, what did I miss? And if not, book your flight now… and mine too, please. 😉
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